Some Details and FAQs

When are you and Dave there and what are your plans?

We arrive 9/27 and depart 10/2. We will likely take a ferry to Capri, check out Pompeii, do some hiking in the surrounding hills, visit surrounding cities, and swim a lot! 

Bring your goggles!

How do I get to Positano from Naples?

There are a few options. You can take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento then the SITA bus to Positano, which is pretty easy - but watch for pickpockets. There is a direct bus from Naples to Sorrento (then you take the SITA bus to Positano), but it only runs till 7:00 p.m.

You can also take a ferry from Naples to Positano but there are only two per day and the schedule is not out yet. There is also the private car or taxi option from Naples. This costs between $100 and $150 and you can prebook on any number of websites.

HELP I can't find a hotel?

Book whatever you can find ASAP. If you are still having trouble, send me an email. I have a few relatively affordable rooms held that I may not need.

What is the official anniversary party plan?

Friday, September 29th - Welcome Happy Hour at the Villa Rosa at 6:00 p.m.

Satruday, September 30th - Cocktails and appetizers at 6:00 p.m. and dinner at 7:00 p.m.

What about Sicily, how do I get there?

This plan is still fluid but I am looking at taking a taxi to Salerno and then the train to Taormina - but then I LOVE trains. You could also fly from Naples to Catania, then take a bus to Taormina. 

Another option is to do a one-way car rental (pick up in Salerno and drop off in Silicy somewhere). I am actually looking at passenger vans so perhaps we could get a group together. This may be excessively costly though given the cost of gas and tolls over there. Also, how can I drink wine at lunch if I have to drive. These are real concerns people.......

Cheese-porn

WeddingMoon - Ashton 20 Year

Look at us, we are children!

OK party people! Here are the start of the details for the 20th anniversary event. I know a few of you are like me and like to get airline tickets reeeeaaaaallllllly early -- and have something to look forward to for a few months. So here you go.

Milan /Venice/? - 9/21 until 9/27

• We got our airline tickets and are arriving in Milan on 9/21 and will stay till 9/23.

• Our parents arrive in Venice 9/23 and we are all staying there until 9/26.

• The night of 9/26 is still a wild card based on weather and what not. Note we are taking the train from Venice to Naples (and likely a shuttle to Positano).

Positano - 9/27 until 10/2

• Welcome Party 9/29

• Anniversary Dinner 9/30

• Positano is worthy of a few days to do nothing but swim in the sea, but there is also:

• Capri, Sorrento, Amalfi day trips

• Ruins of Pompeii

• Bus to any of the surrounding towns then walk back on the coastal trails

• Boat to lunch at Da Adolfo

• Bus or walk up to Nocelle for dinner

Sicily - 10/2 until 10/9

• Fly or train from Naples to Catania then on to Taormina to stay 3 nights at the Villa Astoria.

• There are day trips to Mount Etna, wine tasting, gorgeous beaches, ruins in Taormina, lovely hikes around the city……it really is a special place.

• Then train or bus to Palermo for 4 nights.

• From here there are awesome surrounding cities to visit, more ruins, more beaches, and generally great things to eat and drink. Sicily will make you question your life choices - in a good way.

Email us with any questions or concerns. We will follow up with additional details here as the dates progress!

This could be your breakfast view.

MB Hike Mileage

Happy quarantine everyone!

We still do not have confirmation as to whether our Mont Blanc trip will move forward. I will do this trip at some point in my lifetime, so I decided to scare myself with the mileage and elevation gain/loss. If anything it is motivation to get out and TRAIN because -- yikes. So for comparison, the Windy Hill loop is 6.2 miles and 1,371 feet of elevation fain/loss (and I find that to be a butt-kicker).

Day 1
Arrival day in Les Houches

Day 2

10 miles

5.5 hours

2100/2100

Optional Bellevue Telepherique from Les Houches to Bellevue reduces the climb out of Les Houches by 800m and is recommended.

Day 3

12 miles

8 hours

5200/3000

A free shuttle operates between The Office de Tourisme in Les Contamines and Notre Dame de la Gorge, with several stops between. There is also a shorter 18K option (with 1000 less climbing) and taxi option.

Day 4

12 miles

6.5 hours

2600/2460

Shuttle from La Visaille to Courmayer cuts off 5K and 1 hour.

**Extended Route** This is a good day for a longer walk as it is scenic and downhill. Assumes the shuttle bus, otherwise add 1 hour and 5K.

15 miles

8 hours

2800/4200

**Death Route** This is tough and only the most confident hikers should attempt and only if the weather is good. Assumes the shuttle bus, otherwise add 1 hour and 5K. There is a cable car option to avoid a steep 3,000 descent at the end.

17 miles

3800/6000

Day 5

9 miles

5.5 hours

2900/3700

It is possible to bus this entire day on three separate buses, which sounds like an adventure in itself but the notes say it is easy.

Day 6

11 miles

5.5 hours

2460/3100

**Tougher Route**

9 miles

7 hours

4000/4750

Very demanding thigh-killer, quite exposed but the views from the Fenetre d’Arptette are supposed to be spectacular. This will be weather-dependent.

Day 7

7 miles

5 hours

1,069/970

This day involves taking a bus and there are several options to get to Chamonix. There is also a telecabine to take (but not in poor weather) to avoid the descent.

**Finish Hot** Option to hike through the Le Flegere ski resort with superb views, but this would take another 3.5 hours. The guidebook suggests we do the shorter route and hike this separately the next day.

Day 8 and on in Chamonix

•  Auguilles Rogue Park hiking
•  Cable car to the Aiguille du Midi
•  Train to Montenvers on the Mer de Glace

What to Pack for Mont Blanc

This will be us, see the happiness!

Since we all may have some time on our hands, may as well start thinking about the trip! There are  sales going on, in particular at REI. It could be a good time to pick up a few things you might need for the trip.

As far as weather, keep in mind it will be in the low 70s during the day and low 50s at night. The sun sets early in September so 70 may sound warm, but it won't feel that way at 4:00 p.m. It could also rain, something we Californians are not thinking about in September.

Here are a few things on my list. Remember, our weight limit is about 33 lbs per person for the luggage transfer. When in doubt, leave it out

ESSENTIAL CLOTHING 

• 1 pair hiking shoes - I am going to wear trail runners, I am over boots......
• 3 or 4 pairs of good socks - I love Smartwool, they dry fast and never stink
• 4 tops (mostly long sleeved) - Smartwool due to no-stink  
• 2  bottoms - I like pants for sun-protection, I will wait for a sale at Athleta 
• Hat for warmth/shade - bringing a wooly hat and a wide sun hat 
• Light gloves 
• Waterproof jacket/pants - I am just bringing a rain jacket 
• Casual clothes and footwear for evenings - down coat (Patagonia sweater jacket, best thing I own), flip flops, yogaish pants and cozy shirt

ESSENTIALS 

• Small backpack - I prefer a waist pack like this
• Two water bottles 
• Sunglasses and sunscreen
• Small first aid kit - I am bringing a good one if you don't have one/don't want to bring it 
• A little hand-wash laundry detergent 
• Universal electrical socket adapter 
• Mobile phone - Macs has an app with maps that is detailed in the Trip Information Pack I emailed everyone previously, we will also have paper maps

USEFUL EXTRAS 

• Headlamp
• Whistle
• Map and compass 
• GPS navigation gadget - I will have one of these
• Books 
• Energy snacks - meals will be substantial but I will be bringing a few snacks just in case
• Walking poles - get adjustable for easy travel
• Neck buff - OMG this is ugly

OTHER BITS

• Start thinking about travel insurance. I am going to wait till after the current crisis to purchase it. I am seeing it is about $200 to cover the trip and your person right now. That seems like a lot for a $1,500 trip when we all have health insurance anyway. I will scope around a bit more.
• We all need to provide our traveler information to the company. The link they provided previously was broken. I have asked for a few one and will post it here when I get it.
• The rest of the trip fee will be due early summer.

Yup, will be redic.

Chaos Theory

Shit just got real. I quit my job after four years in a field that I have been in for most of my life. I could very simply not deal.

Perhaps a midlife crisis.

Perhaps I am crazy.

Here goes nothing.

Shit.

Mont Blanc Hut Trip!!!!

OK people! We are going to hike for 8 days around Mont Blanc in France/Italy/Switzerland -- and you are coming with. 

Yup, we are going here.

For those thinking "what the hell is Amie talking about," I am organizing a group trip for fall of 2020. The details follow since it is easier to post here than to email everyone. 

Dates:  September 7 through 14 of 2020

Where:  Mont Blanc, Les Houches to Chamonix - Here is a map of the route. You can fly in and out of Geneva, with the tour start being a one-hour bus ride from Geneva.

One of the "huts" along the way. Hopefully it won't actually snow on us.

Why:  You will also have an awesome guide (me). I speak enough Italian to get us out of trouble and enough French to get us into it! Also, traveling with friends is awesome. I would get sick of talking to Dave for 6 days straight anyway.

Cost:  $1,500 per person with a $300 deposit to reserve your space

FAQs

So what do I get for my money?

• 7 Breakfasts and 5 dinners 
• Baggage transfer, you hike with just a light daypack for your food and water
• Assistance from Travel Agent Amie with your flights, transfers, additional hotel nights, and any onward travel arrangements (Dave and I might stay in Chamonix for a night or two, travel a bit through Switzerland, maybe head to Lyon, or will go see K and H for Oktoberfest in Munich - interested?)
• Organized pre-trip training hikes

How hard is this going to be?

• We will be hiking for six days with an average of 17k per day and 1,500 meters of ascent and descent. So definitely not easy but you have all day to finish the route.
• For the crazies, there are options of up to 27k per day if you feel like peak-bagging and really earning your beers.
• **NOTE** there are options for shorter routes each day by taking ski lifts instead of doing long descents, and using taxi or bus transfers if you are tired or the weather is absolute shiite. 

What are the hotels like?

• We will have four nights accommodation in 2* and 3* hotels, and three nights in auberges or a mixed-sex dorm. They all offer GREAT food and simple accommodations. If you want to Google them, here are a few of the likely hotels:

• Les Houches: Hotel du Bois
• Les Contamines: Hotel la Chemenaz
• Les Chapieux: Refuge de Mottets
• Courmayeur: Hotel Bouton d'Or
• Champex: Gite Bon Abri
• Trient: Hotel la Grande Ourse
• Chamonix: Hotel l'Arve 

How do I get there?

• The most direct route would be to fly into Geneva, from there it is a one-hour bus ride to Les Houches. I have a coupon code for the bus, it is just a few bucks and I can help you book.

When do I have to decide?

• I would need your deposit of $300 by October 1, 2019 (preferably by PayPal). This is a popular trip with limited lodging. 

What if the dates don't work for me or I have other specific questions?

• Please email me or put your questions in the "comments" section below. The dates aren't entirely "set". If folks prefer other specific dates, we can rearrange a bit. 

Florence and Positano - Debbie Downer Here

Florence

What can you say about Florence..... The superlatives do not do it justice. The city has a special place in my heart because it was the first overseas locale Dave and I ever visited almost 17 years ago (holy crap).

We arrived in Florence in March of 1999 on a rainy night -completely jetlagged and bleary-eyed. It was the first time either of us had ever been outside of the US. We were so excited to be there, we took an evening walk in the light rain and stumbled accidentally upon the Duomo. No one else was around and the pink marble just glowed, its colors reflected on the wet cobblestones. I really felt like I was somewhere else. That moment was so amazing that I started crying right there, hello sappy.

I was expecting that same quiet vibe from 1999, where you could wander the old streets and have ancient churches all to yourself. Where you could wander into any restaurant the service and food would be amazing.

This was not the case, my friends.

Dear lord, Florence has changed. I sound like an old fuddy-duddy Luddite, which I am, but that city has changed and is absolutely crawling with Americans (gasp). You can tell they are Americans because:

• They are wearing work out gear, like running or yoga pants, sweatshirts, baseball hats, etc. Or worse - zip-off safari pants, where do you think you are the Serengeti?
• They are always carrying a beverage - coffee, water, soda, something. Why are we all so thirsty? Europe doesn't do to-go, sit down and enjoy your beverage goddammit.
• They are weird about food and try to custom-order everything. No gluten, no dairy, no pork fat, no onions, no garlic......exhausting. Eat it the way it comes for chrissake, the chefs know what they are doing and you came to Italy for an experience - not to eat like you do at home.

Everything was ridiculously crowded. We didn't even bother to go wait in line for 2 hours for the Duomo or Uffuzi, instead we wandered the city looking for views and solace.

 I had to get this far away to avoid the crowds.

Following our long-standing rule "never eat at a restaurant on a square", we searched for small hidden restaurants to get away from the madness. Osteria Pepo was a highlight, but otherwise the food and service was universally unremarkable - I will blame the douchy tourists. We should have done more restaurant research. Luckily, we know how to make the best of things when all the restaurants and attractions are crowded.

Picnic!

Positano

I won't lie, I was pretty happy to leave Florence (something I NEVER thought I would EVER say). We took the train to Naples, the Circumvesuviana to Sorrento, and then the bus to Positano - I love mass transit. We stayed at the same hotel we stayed in when we got married 12 years ago (Villa Rosa). It was nice to be in a familiar warm place - also the views rock and the ocean is warm!

You can hate me now, it's fine. I kind of hate me for this too.

So what is up people, why are you ALL in Italy? Positano was also absolutely CRAWLING with coffee-toting Americans. You almost couldn't walk down the street because there were so many people. I was dying. I understand that cruise boats now make this town a port-of-call, and hundreds invade each day to buy lemon-scented candles or whatever for 5 hours each day. We had to revamp our plans for the week given how busy it was in town.

Luckily, Dave and I are experts at dodging crowds. In case you don't know, we use the 1 Mile/1 Percent Rule - meaning that 99% of the population will not walk more than 1 mile. So we walked the 15 minutes over to little Fornillo Beach, and as the theory holds - no one was there!  

All to ourselves

We also took advantage of all the hiking trails in the area, including the Trail of the Gods to Montepertuso, Nocelle, and Priano. Holy cow if I ever go back to this area of the world, I am staying in Priano. It is quiet, half the price of Positano, and still a cheap bus ride to surrounding towns if you get bored.

We earned this photo, loads and loads of stairs - but few people.

Hated it, not really

Dinner at the restaurant where we had our wedding reception - mushy-mush.

Next stop.......Spain, and oh man is Spain the shiz!

Oktoberfest - My Liver Still Hurts

We sadly left the Dolomites behind. We definitely could have hiked more than 4 days. If I had it to do over, I would have booked a 6- or 7-day trip in those breathtaking mountains. 

It was OK though - because the day we left the Dolomites to head to Munich, it FEAKING SNOWED.......a lot!

I do not do well in cold. It is absolutely amazing that I love to ski as much as I do. I cannot tell you how happy I was to be on the train reading a book when it started snowing in the mountains. 

Then we arrived in Munich for Oktoberfest!

Dave is so GD thrilled to be here.

We met up with the world's best travel companion, TW! 

This lady is unflappable. She is mellow, up for anything, and one hell of a lot of fun. It was nice to have a third person with us after a few weeks of the Dave-and-Amie show, that guy was getting on my nerves (kidding, not kidding). 

We did a bike tour, some shopping, ate sausage, and of course went to several beer establishments around the city. Our favorite is Augusteiner for sure.

Can she rock a hat, or what!

We met up with KR and HR. They moved to Munich with their two kiddos a little over a year ago from the Bay Area. We actually went to Oktoberfest 7 years ago with these folks so it was just like the old days, except this time Dave didn't get kicked out of the beer tent for drinking too much (amateur).

For those that haven't been, there are 14 big tents at Oktoberfest, and you want to be in one of them for beer and roast chicken! We didn't have pre-purchased tickets to any of the tents, which can make things tricky. The festival was packed and I was worried that we wouldn't get into a tent at all - nooooooo. 

We were saved by a member of the ex-pat rugby club in Munich. He had loads of extra tickets and was selling them for face-value in front of the Augusteiner tent. I will forever be a rugby fan because of this generous guy (also the giant muscly legs and short white shorts). So we got seats, beers, chicken, and whole bunch of new rugby-playing friends. 

Lots and lots of this happened.

Photos of the event are limited to protect the not-so-innocent. Let's just say there was a lot of beer and riding jenky-ass-completely-illegal-in-the-US carnival rides. I figure that since they have great national health care, this stuff is tolerated if not encouraged.

I think we spent like $200 on this ride, so FUN but almost DEATH.

This is a real thing, a human spinning nightmare. Folks from 15 to 85 were in serious competition to stay on this death trap. You have to pay 4 EUR to watch but you ride for free.

Playing tourists

KR and HR were outstanding hosts. They gave us a tour of their town (Germering), just outside of Munich. We walked over to their local farm and all were in awe of the CHEESE and MILK vending machine. Seriously, why don't we have these? I know most Americans think we know everything about everything, but the only thing coming out of vending machines in the US is total shit. I think there is a business opportunity here, neighborhood cheese vending machines! 

Cheese makes us giddy!

Our friends also took us on a little picnic, with cheese and beer -  of course. They even did our laundry and KR folded all our stuff with love. Thanks you guys, it was sooooo wonderful to have clean clothes again!

Thank you KR for the figs you hid in my bag - lifesaver after all that bread and sausage.

No, that isn't a crate of empty beer in the stroller.

We also spend a leisurely afternoon with the family at the Andechs Monastery Brewery, which is just a few train stops from their house (notice a theme here, it is Germany after all). 

The beer was made by monks so this is like going to church.

Dave was chumming little SR with coins for the horse.

Being silly, no the kids weren't drinking. That will be next year.

Next stop - Italy.......